The Collar

Collars run from the height of luxury, as embodied by the wingtip, to refreshingly down-to-earth, as embodied by the button-down. In between you’ll find a wide range of options, each of which says something about you and your shirt.

Unless you’re interested in mastering the finer points of men’s style, you probably don’t need to familiarize yourself with every last collar option. Just know that the shape, angle and character of each collar can work for or against your features. Generally, collars with a wider spread complement narrow faces, since they emphasize the horizontal plain. Pointed collars, which feature less space between points and a stronger north-south emphasis, are said to balance rounder faces.

Similarly with the neck, your collar can help you achieve balance. Long, slender necks deserve a collar with more height, such as the straight point or high Italian, while shorter necks look better with a spread or mini point. The idea is to choose with your specific features in mind, rather than according to what looks good on a model (i.e. someone whose features are in perfect proportion).

If you’re looking for a safe and versatile choice, consider something nondescript such as the semi spread. This collar gives you plenty of options in ties and looks equally strong on its own. Somewhere between the tall and narrow straight point and the short and wide cutaway sits the semi spread—formal but not uptight, casual but not uncaring. You can take it in different directions with your choice of colour, pattern and accessories.

Collar stays are essential to maintaining the crispness of your collar—a seemingly insignificant detail, but one that can differentiate the men from the boys. Just be sure to remove them before cleaning your shirt, as they have a tendency to wander. Soft collars, though, convey a more approachable look that is suited to casual shirts and settings. These still require basic care to avoid wrinkling, no matter how casual you want to go.